HADHRAMOUT GOVERNORATE
Hadhramout is the Governorate with the largest territory in The Republic
of Yemen with diverse relief divided into coastal plains comprising of
many enchanting beaches on the Arabian Sea, Mountains and hills reaching
2000m above sea level and extensive areas of the Empty Quarter. There
are also many wadis, the biggest of which is Wadi Hadhramout and its
many tributaries. Wadi Hadhramout runs nearly 165 km into Saihout in
Mahara Governorate.
Hadhramout lies in the southeast of Yemen bordered by Mahara on the east
and Shabwa on the east. It extends northwards deep into the Empty
Quarter with its southern coasts overlooking the Arabian Sea and is
777km away from Sana’a, accessible by a paved road via Marib and Attaq
to Mukalla.
Climate
The Climate in Hadhramout is hot and tropical in summer. Temperatures
reach 40oC in the interior, where a dry tropical climate prevails. In
coastal areas, the temperature is 36oC due the humid monsoon. In the
winter it tends to be moderate, 20-24 oC in the coast and 17- 20oC in
the interior.
Hadhramout (A Historical Introduction):
Hadhramout in Heritage Books is A’ad, ad Ahqaf in the Holy Koran, the
place which god bestowed with prophets of whom are Hood and Saleh peace
upon them. According to Genealogists it was name Hadhramout after it was
a home for Amir Bin Qahtan, who was told that once he attended a war he
multiplied slaughtering and thus used to say that if he attends then
Death attends with him.
Hadhramout in the ancient history of Yemen is one of the ancient
Yemenite states whose prosperity at the onset of the first millennium BC
was on the Valley Banks between the chains of Mountain and the desert of
the Empty Quarter the east of Yemen. Through the ancient Yemenite
inscriptions discovered up to date it is possible to say that Hadhramout
in its ancient times was a vassal state of the Sabean Dynasty which was
the biggest and most powerful ancient State in Southern Arabia.
During a consequent period Hadhramout Dynasty became an ally of Sheba.
Hadhramout was in possession of the land that used to grow Ollibanum in
its eastern and easternmost parts like Dhofar (Currently in Oman) and
dominated the north towards the Empty Quarter till Al Abr. In addition
to its original location in Wadi Hadhramout it controlled the Hadramite
Coasts overlooking the Arabian Sea and the Ollibanum at the time was an
important of extreme importance and expensive sought after commodity and
was much sought after at the capitals of the ancient world where it used
to be used for many purpose like religious Rites, Funerals, Presents and
the honorary occasions including medical purposes at times. The
procedures of Ollibanum care was so much surround with strange legends
and the ancient port of Qana on the coast of Southern Arabia one of the
causes for the flourishing of Hadhramout.
Qana did not only receive Ships from Hadhramout merely but received
ships from the Indian Ocean which carried to Qana various products of
which are the gold, Silk and condiments. From the Capital Shabwa during
the 4th Century BC he was announced as the King of spices as per the
Greek annals-Independent Dynasty of Hadhramout.
Thus did the neighboring entities and that happened during a period of
weakness underwent by Sheba. On the Bank of Wadi Armah at the western
head of Hadhramout at the fringes of Sabean Sand dunes, Shabwa Was the
Capital of Hadhramout and its biggest city receiving caravans of camels
laden with the different products from the gate allocated for caravans
and it is eastern gate so that the camels would pay one tenth of which
they carry and this levy was allocated for the temple priests. A ratio
of that tenth used to be spent on the guests of the capital during some
seasons of the year. The temples of Goddess “Sean” , The Banquet
Host”(Dhul-iam). The temples amounted to 60 temples as recounted by
Bilinius in Shabwa only for the temples moon” Seen” in a number of other
Hadramite cities like Maifa’ah, Qana, Madhab near Huraidah in Wadi
Doa’an, Rayboon in he southern part of Doa’an valley, Saboonah, Mashghah
in Wadi Adam and other Hadramite townships.
The valleys of Hadramout were much attended to for from the studies
conducted in the area of Rayboon the area is considered an example for
what has been achieved in the history of ancient Hadramout of advance in
the engineering of dams, irrigation and water distribution and drainage
systems. From excavations in many historical locations, a lot of
artifacts, statues and inscriptions were collected and the visitors of
the Museum in Sayoun and Mukalla can witness them discern the extent of
civilization reached by ancient Yemenites during the Hadramite Dynasty
which was afflicted with what befell other ancient Yemenite states in
Eastern Yemen after incense was forbidden in Christian churches and
after the sailing vessel abandoned the Hadramite Port of Qana and began
the new Maritime line between the Indian Ocean and the North of the Red
Sea. Hadramout the ancient Yemenite Kingdom demised at the last quarter
of the third century AD at the hands of the Himyarite king the epical
personality “ Shammar Yahra’ash” King of Sheba. Dhi Raidan, Hadramout
and Yamanat.
Hadramout remained part of the Himyarite State which ruled most of
greater Yemen. Then it fell under the Abyssinian Occupation. Before
Islam, the state of Kindah has adopted Damoon as its Capital in Tarim at
Wadi Hadramout for sometime, before the Tribe of Kindah immigrated to
the north. After the advent of Islam the Yemenite Hadramites were like
other Yemeni brethren partisans of the new religion.
The Mikhlafs of Yemen then become subordinate of the Khilfate of which
is Hadramout till the Yemenite vassal states became independent,
Hadramout included. Thus many Hadramites began their immigrations of 700
years ago to many parts of Asia and Africa and at their hands Islam
spread in many parts of the Indian Peninsula, Southern Asia and the East
of Africa, the civilization contact did not suspend in Hadramout as is
the case in the other Yemenite areas. Then Shihir replaced the ancient
with the Medieval and Islamic ports.
The ancient dwellers of Shabawah left it and settled in Shibam Hadramout.
As for Tarim it became the destination for religious learning like Zabid,
Sa’dah, Sana’a and Jiblah..etc.
In Hadramout the civilization contact has been always in touch and thus
kept the gist of ancient Yemen, its arts, skills and those acquired from
other civilizations to form what we see today in the Minarets of Tarim
and the Manhattan of the desert” Shibam Hadramout”.
We also see the handicraft ateliers in Mukalala and Shihir besides those
ancient locations Hadramout contains many of the Historical Towns
archaeological sites and Tourist areas whether in the coastal part of
Hadramout or in the inner parts.
The Current Status for the Archaeological ,Historical and Tourist Sites:
Mukalla
The capital of Hadramout and one of Yemen’s ports on the Arabian Sea. It
was known as Khaisa or Bandar Yakoub and has been called Mukalla only
recently.
Fishermen were the first to settle in Mukalla, having immigrated from
adjacent regions, In this city, the first Princedom of Al-Kasad was
established in the 18th 19th century AD, This prosperity gave this city
the architectural style of Coastal cities which lie on the Arabian Sea
and the Red Sea such as Aqaba, Jeddah, Hodeidah, Mokha, Luhayya, and
Aden. All these cities lost their original style, which may now be seen
only in the old ‘downtown’ of Mukalla city. It is a style combining the
features of Arabian and south-east Asian architecture.
Mukalla’s Prominent Features Ma’een Palace, which was built by Sultan
Omer Bin Awadah Qu’aiti. Mukalla Archaeological Museum now occupies a
part of this palace.
- Ghuwaizi Fort: Built at the entrance of the city as a guard post and
which was built in 1884AD.
Ghuwaizi Fort
- Khalaf Beaches: The city is also famous for the production of Mukalla
Gypsum.
Ghail Bawazeer
Located about 35km to the east of Mukalla, it is a Fertile spring-fed
agricultural area that grows tobacco, hence comes the term Ghaili
Tobacco, which is considered the finest tobacco in Yemen, Palm trees,
Henna, and Coconut.
The rest house of the Qu’aiti Sultan, now called Ghail Tourist Rest
House, is open for visitors.
Ayn Al-Houma
Located near Ghail Bawazeer, it is the source of water irrigated Ghail
farms. This rocky pit, 12 meters deep and 30 meters across, is said to
have been made by a meteorite.
Two canals are carved out of this pit, both of which are a few feet
wide. One canal is 5km long the other is 2km long. The water level at
Houma Subsided below the level of the shorter canal that flowed to Qara
village. The carving of the two canals in this rocky land was a great
effort similar to the construction of dams, ditches and water reservoirs
in other areas of Yemen.
Shihir
This town, 62km east of Mukalla, was known by other names such as
Sam’oun and Souq.
It is more likely that the name of Souq was associated with Shihir since
it was one of the famous Pre-Islamic Arab markets such as Awkadh, Sana’a
and Doumat Al Jandal, in your it used to be called Shihir Al-Mahrah.
Shiher flourished as a port immediately after the decline of Qana
ancient port. Incense was exported from this port, coming on camelback
from the far east of Maharah to Shibam and then to Shiher. Shiher port
used to have extensive trading relations with the ports of India,
Arabian Gulf, East Africa, etc. I t became more important during the
Abbaside period until it was invaded by the Portuguese in 1523 who were
expelled by force.
City Wall and Castles
The city wall and castles date back to the Rasulide Dynasty, while the
last wall was built during the period of the Qu’aiti Sultante the wall
at one time had two gates the eastern one was called Al-Khgour gate,
while the northern one was called Aydarous Gate. The wall forts,
castles, gates, and Bin Ayash fort are considered the most interesting
features of Shihir city.
Shahir is also an important handicraft center producing kilts, silver
and gold ornaments.
Hot and Sulfurous Springs
A long the coast of Shihir there are a number of hot sulfuric springs
frequented by people seeking cures for different diseases such as skin
diseases, rheumatism, digestive and internal ailments, diabetes and
obesity, Among these springs are:
Tawbalah Springs: these are the heaviest and greatest in number, 10km,
away from Shihir.
Hami: about 17 km from Shihir.
Swayber: This is about 47km from Shihir and it is regarded as the most
Important spring with cold sulfuric water.
Eastern Dees: This is about 50km from Shihir and is nearer to Swayber.
Sharma Beach: This is about 120km to the east of Mukalla, which is
considered one of the most beautiful beaches in Yemen. Turtles nest in
this beach during their season of procreation.
Wadi Hadhramout:
A 320km paved road, starting from Mukalla and running the length of Wadi
Hadhramout through its many towns and villages to Seiyun, the capital of
the Wadi.
Hadhramout is the longest wadi in the Arabian Peninsula extending 165km
as far as Thamood with its water running into Saihoot across Wadi
Massila. Its width varies from 12km to 700m. Its fertile fields grow
palm trees, cereals, tobacco, henna, coconut, banana, lemon, and pepper.
More palm trees grow in this wadi than in any other area in Yemen.
The drainage designs of the Wadi are highly sophisticated. Run-off water
is diverted and drained within a few hours, unlike other wadis in Yemen.
Seiyoun
The major city in Hadhramout, 320 km away from Mukalla and the
administrative capital of the wadi. It has flourished as the capital of
the wadi since the 15th century AD. This city is mentioned in the old
Musnad inscriptions. Classical historians state that it was a major city
for the dynasties of Hadhramout, Hemyar, and Kendah. Seiyoun in an
attractive city with houses built of straw reinforced clay bricks mostly
consisting of 3-4 floors. It is surrounded by mountains and palm trees.
Most prominent features of this city are the old mosques and the
Sultan’s Palace.
Sultan Al Kathiri Palace
Al Kathiri Palace
Originally it was a fort, then after many modifications it became the
official residence for Sultan Al Kathiri. The palace dates back in its
present state to the late 20s of this century. It consists of 16
buildings, is 34m high and has 90 rooms. Part of it is now used as an
archeological museum of traditions and customs as well as a public
Library.
Market
It is one of the main features of Seiyoun at artisans display their
wares in this traditional market.
Tomb of Ahmed Bin Eisa The Emigrant
This tomb represents a tourists feature that is distinguished for its
architectural style. It is located on a high ground at the side of the
mountain. The style of the mosque at the foot of the mountain and the
path linking the Tom and the Mosque in their zigzag form, and the white
coat, all add to the beauty of the Tomb and the mosque as well as the
path in between. The tomb dates back to the 10th century AD and is 10km
to the east Seiyoun.
Tareem City (Known as AL-Ghanaa)
Situated at the left bank of Hadhramout 35km to the northeast of Seiyoun
with a paved road concerning the two cities. It was, in ancient times, a
seat for Kindah Kings, then capital for Wadi Hadhramout before Seiyoun.
It was also a brilliant Islamic intellectual center like Zabid, Dhamar,
Jibla and Saada. It still possesses the famous school dubbed Raibat
Tareem offering its knowledge and religious functions till this day.
There is also Al Ahqaf Library in Tareem which is the second largest
Library in Yemen, containing more than 5000 manuscripts. Many of the
Hadhramout citizens immigrated to different parts of the world,
particularly from Tareem, to many parts of the world like East Africa
and the Indian subcontinent and south east Asia as of the early 13th
century AD. Among them were scholars, missionaries, scientists and
tradesmen, all of whom spread Islam to those parts. They were and are
still attached to their homeland feeling nostalgia for the land of their
ancestors.
It was the custom of immigrants, after returning home, to build a mosque
in gratitude to Allah for their return, and then a house showing the
wealth they brought back. Therefore, lofty houses were built along with
palaces and a new architectural style was developed combining the styles
of East Asia and India with those of the local architecture. This can be
seen on the facades of Tareem’s beautiful houses and palaces surrounded
by palm trees.
The Most prominent forts and castles are:
- Najeer Fort, which is located 6km to the east of Tareem and Al-Irr
Fort, next to Al Sawm, 15km to the east of Tareem.
- Mehdar Mosque and Minaret, dating back to 1915 AD, and whose minaret
stands 125 ft in height.
Aynat
A beautiful village 8km to the east of Tareem , dating back to the 16th
century AD .Aynat display a unique style of architecture of domes and
Tombs and they are the famous 7domes in Aynat. Also there are a number
of houses of beautiful architectural style.
Tomb of Prophet Hood:
Hadhramout is one of the centers of Monotheistic religious and is one of
the sacred sites. Many prophets and messengers of god are buried there.
Among the most important tombs are those of prophet of Saleh, Mash-had
prophet Handlah Bin Soufan the Safwan “ the Prophet of the people of
Raas” as mentioned in the Holy Koran. The most important of which is the
Tomb of prophet Hood. It is located on a small hill 90 km east to
Tareem. The Dome housing the tomb was built in its current state in 1673
AD. This dome is called An-Naqa (the female camel) a windy cobblestone
path, white washed as the dome, leads to the nearby village down the
hill. Prophet Hood’s tomb has been a pilgrim’s destination since the
pre-Islamic era.
A market is held near the Shrine during the pilgrimage season which
lasts for one week as of the sixth day of the Month of Sha’aban of each
year. Charitable people provided with an electric generator and water
network free of charge to serve the visitors of the shrine during the
pilgrimage season and in other times built the village under the hill.
Barhout Well
A 300ft high cave located 10 km to the south of the Tomb of prophet
Hood. Many narratives and myths have been related about this cave since
the pre-Islamic period till this day.
Seasonal Religious Visits
There are tombs of many famous saints located in different areas of
Hadhramout in many parts of Hadhramout. Such saints have a great
spiritual place in the hearts of the people, expressed through their
collective annual visits accompanied with prayers and religious songs.
Seasonal markets are held and featured with aspects of joy, pleasure,
and delight. The most well known of these visits are:
Visit of Alssit in the two villages of Sha’ab Al-Nour and Al-Wasit to
the north of Al-Shiher , from the 12-19 of Muharram every Hegira year.
Al-Houl visit: This is held around the Tomb of Al-Hebsh Scholar on 17-20
of Rabie Al-Thani every AH year.
Visit to Mashhad: Mashhad is the Shrine of Ali Bin Hasan Al-Attas, and
is visited on hen 12th Rabite Awal every AH year.
Shibam
Shibam city
It is called Ad-Doumna or Safra’a, and is located in the middle of wadi
Hadhramout at the narrowest point of it by a road bifurcate
On a hill 30m higher than the Wadi level. Shibam is 19km from Seiyoun on
the paved road leading to Mukalla. Shibam was built on the ruins of an
ancient city of Hadhramout. The natives of Old Shabwa settled in Shibam
after the destruction of their city. There is similarity between the two
names. The city had been the most important market in Hadhramout and a
significant administrative center for many centuries up to the 16
century AD. It has been destroyed by floods several times, most recently
in 1532.
Shibam looks, from a distance, like an imposing castle with its lofty
houses, some of which are 8 floors high, forming close blocks separated
by lanes and squares. There are about 500 houses built of straw
reinforced mud bricks, the houses are almost equal in height. Some women
of the city visit their neighbors across skywalks from one rooftop to
another in order to save time and effort. Some houses dates back
hundreds of years. The city has one gate, which was last maintained in
1909.
The city was visited by pioneering European travelers who called it the
Manhattan of the desert. UNESCO placed Shibam on its Human Patrimony
list and , in 1984, announced an international campaign for its
protection. Shibam is the most beautiful Yemenite city after Old Sana’a.
The Most Important Features of Shibam Hadhramout
- The great Mosque, built in the era of the Abbaside Caliph Haroun
Al-Rasheed in the early 10th century AD.
- The historical Fort of Shibam: which was built by Bin Mahdi during the
early 13th century. AD. And the city wall dating back to the 17th
century AD.
Al-Qatn city:
The second biggest city in Hadhramout after Seiuoun. It was the starting
point for Qu’aiti Sultan in his fights against Al Kathiri Sultanate
during the struggle between the two powers for control over the wadi.
The struggle went on until the end of the first half on this century.
Al-Qatn is a beautiful city with houses built of straw mixed mud bricks
that are prevalent in the towns and villages of Hadhramout. Its most
prominent feature is the Qu’aiti fort. The city holds a seasonal trading
market that coincides with Al-Hadder Tomb pilgrimage starting on 15th
Jumada Al- Thani for one week every Hegira Year.
Rayboun
This is an important archaeological site in Wadi Hadhramout located at
the north entrance of Wadi Daw’an, 94 km from Seiyoun. Rayboun dates
back to the beginning of the first millennium BC. Archaeological
explorations conducted in this site unearthed relics of old temples,
ruins of the ancient city and an old irrigation system considered to be
a good example of flood drainage system in Hadhramout. Some important
artifacts were discovered and are on display in Seiyoun Archaeological
Museum.
Wadi Daw’an
There are several branch wadis in Hadhramout such as Wadi Daw’an. Al Ayn
and Amad etc.. Da’wan is considered to be the most important and famous
of all as there are many attractive villages along both banks of the
Wadi, which are considered as excellent examples means city in old
Yemenite language. It is one of the most beautiful Yemeni villages and
the most beautiful village in Hadhramout. It is situated at the corner
of one of the bends of the valley and is divided into two adjacent parts
on both sides of the bend. It is the oldest village in Wadi Hadhramout
over-looking groves of palm trees.
Huraidha
Located at the entrance of Wadi Amad., 100km to the west of Seiyoun. It
was built on the ruins of Madhab, a city in ancient Hadhramout kingdom.
It is now the center of Da’wan district. On the west side of this city,
there are ruins of the temple of Goddess “Seen” (The Moon) the main
Goddess of Ancient Hadhramout Kingdom.
On both banks of Da’wan there are many beautiful villages such as:
· Qaidoun: A pilgrimage is made to the tomb of Sheikh Sa’eed Bin Eisa
Al-Amoudi here in the last week of Rajab every Hegira year. This village
is 126km to the west of Seiyoun.
· Saiff: This village hosts pilgrimage to the tomb of Shaikhan Bin Ahmed
on 8-12th of Rabie Al- Thani every year and is 127 km away from Seiyoun.
· Budha: the village hosts a pilgrimage to the tomb of Ma’rouf Bajamal
on the 18th to 22nd of Thu Al-Hija every year and is 142km to the west
of Seiyoun.
· Hodoun: At this village, the pilgrimage is usually made to the tomb of
Hadoun son of Prophet Hood on 15th to 16th Sha’aban every year. The
village is located 142 to the west of Seiyoun.
· Rihab: At this village the pilgrimage is usually made to the tomb of
Banajah on the 14th to 16th of Rajab every Hegira year. The village is
located 152 to the west of Seiyoun.
· Al-Khoraybah: This village was a main center for the old Yemeni
caravans between the coast and the valley and is 157 to the west of
Seiyoun.
· Rasheed: This is 153 to the west of Seiyoun.
· Al-Ribat: This is Rabit Ba’ishin and is located at the right northern
end of Dawa’n valley.
Folklore and other Innovative Arts:
In hadhramout there are many sorts and styles of folklore, most
interesting of which is called” Al-Dan Al-Hadrami”.
Frankincense Route:
One of the branch routes of incense-laden caravans which started from
Seiyoun through Al Abr, Kana’is, Jidran as far as Kharbat Saud, which
was the last Sabean way station. From there, travel was resumed across
cities and way stations towards Gaza port on the Mediterranean. There
used to be another path for incense camel caravans starting from Seiyoun
across the Qatabanite cities and way stations and Sabean Stations and
then to Ma’een.
Nowadays, there are regular tourist trips starting from Wadi Hadhramout
through Al-Abr area to Marib and other trips starting from the same Wadi
through old Shabwa, Ramlat Al-Sab’atain to Marib, which is a most
interesting tourist route.
Source: National Information Center, Sana'a
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